A Day in Ancient Hierapolis

Pamukkale means ‘cotton castle’ in Turkish and was named after the white travertine terraces that (kinda) look like a castle. For the non-expert geologist visitor, these world-famous terraces are formed by thermal hot springs (there are 17 of them) trickling down the hillside leaving deposits of dissolved calcium carbonate – the same stuff that makes stalactites and stalagmites. As this dissolved limestone rock dries out, it forms layers which ultimately create the waterfall-like terraces that you can see today.
The terraces have been formed over thousands of years and were popular even in Roman times but were almost destroyed by tourist visits until the 1990s when UNESCO ordered many of the pools to be closed off and the on-site hotels bulldozed, as a condition of gaining World Heritage status.
Although the site is much better managed these days, it is still THE most visited site in the whole of Türkiye. Over 2.5 million people come here each year and, no matter how early or late you go, you’re going to have to share the experience - so be patient because it’s worth it.
Buy an entry ticket here at the South Gate which also includes access to Hierapolis which you’ll be visiting later.
Don’t lose your ticket as you’ll be leaving the site for lunch and returning via the North Gate.

To walk down the travertine terraces you’ll need to take your shoes off to avoid damaging and dirtying the delicate travertine. The path will take you along and down the terraces and you can stop at some of the pools to bathe your feet – it’s too shallow to immerse yourself here; you’ll get a chance to properly bathe later. The water ranges from warm to quite hot as the volcanic activity pushes the spring water 300 metres through the rock to the surface. Keep to the path and don’t be tempted to sneak into any of the roped areas for a good photograph as you’ll be in big trouble with the guards.

Even if museums aren’t your thing, it’s worth a half hour wander around this museum to check out some of the incredible statues, sarcophagi, and carved friezes that have been found in ancient Hierapolis. The building is also pretty cool too as it was originally part of the city’s public baths.

Of all the ruined structures in Hierapolis, this, to me, is the most spectacular. Sitting on the hill overlooking the city, this huge arena was originally built by the Emperor Hadrian (the same guy who built the wall that straddles England) and could seat 12,000 spectators. Walk up to the seats at the top for an incredible view down onto the stage and the columned backdrop. Also check out the VIP seats in the front row.

Walk back to the car.

Mehmets is a decent place for lunch with a large outdoor terrace overlooking the travertine terraces. The food is traditional Turkish and it’s a good place to try borek (deep fried, cigar-shaped pastries filled with spinach and feta) and ayran, a salty yoghurt drink.

Return to Hierapolis via the North Entrance Car Park.

Back on site, this huge necropolis contains around 1,200 marble and limestone tombs and is one of the best-preserved burial grounds in Türkiye. As the wealthy but ailing visitors flocked to Hieropolis to take in the curative waters, many also stayed and died here – hence the large number of ornate graves; some so large that they resemble temples.

It’s a 20-minute walk along the main path from here if you go straight to the Cleopatra Pools, however there are many sights to see along the way if you wish to see more. This includes: the Temple of Apollo, where citizens and visitors came to consult the Oracle and the nearby Plutonium, where the Oracle’s prophecies were ‘paid for’ through animal sacrifice; the huge agora, a meeting and gathering place; the nymphaeum, one of 2 large fountains that used to supply the city’s 100,000 inhabitants with fresh water.
If the sight of the freshwater pools made you want to jump in this morning, here’s a place where you can actually have a swim. There’s an additional entrance fee to access the Cleopatra Antique Pools but, personally, I think it’s one of the highlights. This was originally a private bathing pool where Cleopatra, her lover Mark Anthony, and their mates used to hang out (think of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton lounging around in the warm thermal waters). There was also a Temple of Apollo here at one time, but the marble columns collapsed into the pool during an earthquake. You can see them in the water as you swim around which is pretty cool. There are also lockers here to keep your stuff safe while you bathe.

Walk back to the car.

Return to the hotel.

This ‘no-frills’ restaurant has the tastiest selection of pide (Turkish pizza) in town. Try it with lamb, cheese, mushrooms, chicken or a combination, and I guarantee you’ll never feel the same about a ‘normal’ pizza again.

Walk back to the hotel.