Frogs (Stewed and Stuffed) and Dragons

Better known as the Red Keep Palace Gardens (King’s Landing) to Game of Thrones fans, Trsteno Arboretum is the oldest Renaissance arboretum in Croatia. Constructed by the Gucetic - Gozze family in the 15th Century on their large estate, the arboretum is now a protected monument, owned by the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts. Whether you’re a fan of historic gardens or not, it’s a great place to wander around (especially to escape the summer heat) and there are some beautiful sights to check out.
The large waterlily pond, overlooked by the statue of Neptune is gorgeous, as is the shady path along the palm grove. Walk to the stone pavilion which provides a perfect picture frame for the stunning coastal views (this view will be very familiar to Game of Throne fans), also check out the aqueduct that fed water to the fountain, and the old mill that houses an olive/grape press. Finally, don’t miss (it would be hard to!) the 2 giant Oriental Plane trees that stand over 50 metres high, with huge 5 metre diameter trunks. These are over 500 years old.
Tickets can be purchased at the site entrance, but note there are no cafes or kiosks inside, so you may want to bring your refreshments.

It’s not always easy to find a traditional Croatian restaurant along this stretch of coastline, but Teta Olga is about as authentic as it gets. If you’re feeling adventurous, I recommend trying the eel or frogs’ legs: you can get them served in a variety of ways, but, if you’ve never eaten them before, they are particularly good stewed as the meat can be a bit chewy.

Stop here for an incredible view of the 50 metre Gubavica waterfall flowing down into the Cetina River Canyon.

Park here to walk to the hotel.

This is a beautiful boutique hotel, with an enviable position right in the heart of the city, with fabulous sea views and stylish rooms. Check in before you walk to the palace.

Diocletian’s Palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the ‘poster child’ of Split but it’s not a palace in its traditional sense; it’s more of a fortress. But it’s not just a fortress either. The best way to describe it is a ‘living museum’. Home to around 3000 residents, this enormous Roman complex forms the skeleton of the ‘Old City’, and pulses with vibrancy. It literally is the heart and soul of the city.
Built by Roman emperor Diocletian in AD 305 (just in time for his retirement) the complex was constructed to be not just a residential palace but also a military fortress and walled town, with the south-facing palatial rooms separated from the northern military barracks by a road (now Kresimirova). The complex was accessed via 4 gates - Golden, Bronze, Silver and Iron; the stone pillars and arches remain today - the Golden one is, unsurprisingly, the fanciest.
Like many Roman emperors, Diocletian had extravagant tastes and imported marble from Italy and sphinxes from Egypt (look out for these black marble sculptures by the gates), as well as white limestone from nearby Brac, to decorate his complex. He also wanted to enter his palace in grand style and so the complex was constructed on the waterfront with direct access to the sea via the Bronze Gate.
The best way to see the ‘palace’ is to walk from here out to each of the 4 gates, along the 2 main streets – Peristil and Kresimirova – both of which are lined with bars, restaurants, and souvenir shops; it’s only a couple of minutes’ walking between the gates but stroll slowly as there’s so much to see. Don’t forget to look up as you walk around because the best of the Roman architecture sits above these buildings.

Underneath this vast complex are the palace cellars, which were used as storage during Diocletian’s time. Unlike the rest of the complex, there is an entrance fee to access the cellars, but they’re worth a look, especially if you believe in dragons.
Once you’ve run the gauntlet through the souvenir shops, you’ll find yourself in a slightly eerie maze-like structure of rooms and corridors. This is where Daenerys Targaryen (from Game of Thrones) kept her brood of dragons when she was in Meereen. If you’ve never seen the TV series, just imagine some giant, scaley, fire-eating beasts confronting you as you walk into one of the dark rooms.

From giant, reptilian creatures, to stuffed amphibious ones, Froggyland shows that, despite its UNESCO status, the city doesn’t take itself too seriously. This attraction might not be for everyone, but I absolutely love it! It’s one of the most bizarre, intriguing, and totally bonkers exhibitions that I’ve ever been to. In essence, it’s a collection of dioramas featuring stuffed toads (why it’s called Froggyland, I’ve no idea) with each glass case telling a different story.
Created by a Hungarian taxidermist between 1910-1920, each scene is beautifully crafted with incredible attention to detail. My favourite is the village fete where several toads are dancing together, getting drunk and making music. Look carefully, and you’ll see that one toad is approaching a couple of dancing toads with a barely concealed knife. A jealous lover perhaps?

I’m not a vegetarian but I love good food, with or without ‘animal’ and this place does some super-tasty pastas and risottos. The inside is also beautifully decorated with trees and branches and makes me feel a bit like I’m sitting inside a children’s fairy tale book.

Walk back along the Riva (promenade) for a stunning view of the palace lit up at night.