Wine, Walls & Water

Although Ston was originally an old Roman town – Stagnum - the buildings and structures that you’ll see today are medieval, built in the 14th Century by the Republic of Dubrovnik. Dominating the landscape of this small town is the restored Fort Kastio that was built as a defensive structure to protect the town’s main asset, the saltworks. At the time, salt was one of the most sought-after commodities in Europe (as it was used to preserve fish and meat) and so provided the town with its main income.
Get a ticket at the entrance gate and walk around the battlements for a spectacular view of the salt pans which sparkle like a sequinned patchwork blanket along the edge of town (you’ll be visiting here tomorrow), and the pretty red-roofed Ston houses. Also, check out the old cannon on the ramparts.

If you don’t fancy trekking all the way out to China, here’s your chance to experience a miniature version of the Great Wall. Built in 1333 as part of the town’s defensive plans, this 7km long wall stretched from Ston across to Mali Ston (‘little’ Ston), preventing access by land to the peninsula. Although tiny compared to China’s Great Wall (which is over 21,000 long), personally, I think this wall is just as beautiful in its own way. Although only 5.5km of the original 7km wall remains (some of the stones were removed to build houses when the wall fell into disrepair in the 19th Century), you can walk along the wall from here to Mali Ston. It takes around 40 minutes. There are a lot of steps, and it can be steep in places, but there are handrails, so it’s perfectly safe. It’s a beautiful walk and the views along the way are breath-taking. The wall is connected by 40 towers and 7 forts (including Fort Kastio) so there are plenty of lookout points. You’ll need a ticket to access the wall but it’s the same ticket as you used to enter the fortress.

You've now walked to where the wall ends in Mali Ston. This small village does one thing, and it does it really well – oysters. Widely hailed as the finest oysters in Croatia, they have a particular taste which apparently is due to the bay having a particular mix of salt and freshwater.
You will be picked up from here to go on a boat trip led by a local oyster and mussel farmer who will take you out into the bay to visit the oyster beds and show you how they are cultivated. As part of the trip, you’ll get to try fresh raw oysters, straight from the sea, as well as some cooked mussels. If you’re not a huge fan of oysters, which I’m not, you must try these ones; the flavour is very different from other oysters I’ve tried – it’s much more delicate and is quite delicious with some freshly squeezed lemon.
Note this boat trip needs to be booked in advance. As the boat yard is outside of the village, you will need to specify that this is your pick-up/drop off point in Mali Ston. Contact them online.

There are two things that make this restaurant fabulous: the location – it’s in a restored castle (part of the ‘Great Wall’ defences) and the seafood. There’s plenty of oysters and mussels on the menu if you haven’t had your fill yet, and the octopus and prawns are also fantastic. Make sure you save enough room for dessert as this is a great place to try the famous Ston Cake’ – a slightly weird but moreish dessert made from macaroni pasta, chocolate, and nuts; a recipe that dates to medieval times.
As this place can get quite busy, it’s worth booking a table in advance if you’re visiting in the summer season. Tel: +38520754482

Return to the car.

After plenty of walking today, it’s time for a swim and some relaxation. Vucine is one of the loveliest beaches on the peninsula. There are no sunbed concessions here, nor noisy watersports – just a small, pebbled bay, fringed with pine trees and beautiful, clear blue, shallow waters.

The small village of Dingac is one of the biggest wine-producers on the peninsula although the producers are mostly small-scale, family businesses. What makes the area unique though is that the vines are grown on slopes leading down to the sea, some of which are so steep that the farmers attach themselves to ropes when they’re doing the cultivation.
Matusko Winery produces a fabulous range of wines that you can taste here (including a lovely sparkling wine). You’ll also get to see the wine cellars and learn about the whole process. If you’re feeling peckish, you can order some tasty cheese and meat platters to accompany the tastings. Note this experience needs to be booked in advance. Book online.

Konobas are unique to Croatia. They’re small, and usually family-run restaurants, that specialise in traditional dishes using fresh, local produce. Andiamo Konoba does a particularly good selection of ‘peka’ dishes – meat or octopus roasted over an open fire, covered with a bell-shaped lid, so it’s half baked, half roasted. If you haven’t tried it before, it produces the most tender and juicy meat you’ll ever taste. As the process takes a long time, the dish needs to be ordered in advance.
Contact the restaurant on +385989838614 to reserve a table and order your ‘peka’

This small and pretty hotel has a fabulous location in the main square on the seafront. The rooms are brightly decorated and very comfortable and there’s a bar/restaurant with a breezy terrace if you fancy a post-dinner drink.